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Resources

Best Practices

The RRG Fixed Gear Initiative supports rebolting efforts and sustainable new route development throughout the Red River Gorge area. The following are our favorite resources on sustainable bolting practices.

Best Practices for Rebolting in the RRG:

  • Work within your ability level, don't take on any work you aren’t trained for.

  • Once you start to replace a bolt, finish the job. Never leave a route in an unsafe condition.

  • Old bolt holes should be reused whenever possible. When hole for hole replacement is not possible/practical or a bolt location needs moved, the old bolt holes should be patched and camouflaged. 

  • While a mix of mechanical and adhesive anchors are used for new route development in RRG, due to their long service life and maintenance-free nature, adhesive anchors should be used for bolt replacement. Glue-In Bolts should be a minimum of 4" in length, made of Stainless Steel or Titanium and be installed with an appropriate Epoxy, Epoxy-Acrylate, or Vinylester adhesive.

  • Components used on anchors; such as chain, quicklinks, and rap rings should be Stainless Steel whenever possible. While components intended as the wear component in an anchor system, such as Mussy Hooks, may be plated steel due to their relative ease of replacement.


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Additional Resources

Additional resources for Rebolting, Maintenance, and New Development in the Red River Gorge:

 

RRGCC Info on Land Managers, Development MOUhttps://rrgcc.org/bolting

 

How Not To Highline’s Bolting Bible:https://www.hownot2.com/post/boltingbibleAccess Fund: How to Identify Bad Bolts:

https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/can-you-trust-that-bolt

 

ASCA:Information on best practices, hardware guidelines, bolt removal and replacement techniques, placing adhesive and mechanical anchors.

https://safeclimbing.org/best-practices-for-hardware-and-placement

 

Rick Weber’s Bolting in Corbin Sandstone 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X6y6ZKcVjicmUFJDRTDswrZpycK73IFB/view?usp=drive_link

 

Tool List for Rebolting with links on where to buy:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1VsuVNuQdAZtBxl9Y9-bX9o0Q1nLpcjwliXAB2p4vH6E/edit?usp=sharing

 

Where to find and report bad bolts: badbolts.com

Red River Gorge
Fixed Gear Initiative

RRG FGI is a wholly-owned subsidiary of the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition Inc a 501(c)3 Nonprofit. EIN: 31-1503651

EMAIL

Disclaimer:

The Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative LLC (RRG FGI) is not responsible for any inaccuracies, omissions, or outdated information found on this site. Users are advised to verify any information independently before making decisions based on it. Rock climbing is inherently dangerous, even with all the proper safety protocols adhered to, serious injury or death can result. RRG FGI does not manage or install fixed hardware. RRG FGI does not guarantee the safety, suitability, or performance of any rock climbing hardware or the substrate to which they are affixed for any specific use. It is the sole responsibility of the user to ensure proper installation, regular inspection, and maintenance of any safety apparatus used in accordance with the manufacturer's guidelines. Climb at your own risk. 

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