The RRG Fixed Gear Initiative supports rebolting efforts and sustainable new route development throughout the Red River Gorge area. The following are our favorite resources on sustainable bolting practices.
Best Practices for Rebolting in the RRG:
Additional resources for Rebolting, Maintenance, and New Development in the Red River Gorge:
RRGCC Info on Land Managers, Development MOU
https://rrgcc.org/bolting
How Not To Highline’s Bolting Bible:
https://www.hownot2.com/post/boltingbible
Access Fund:
How to Identify Bad Bolts:
https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/can-you-trust-that-bolt
ASCA:
Information on best practices, hardware guidelines, bolt removal and replacement techniques, placing adhesive and mechanical anchors.
https://safeclimbing.org/best-practices-for-hardware-and-placement
Rick Weber’s Bolting in Corbin Sandstone
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X6y6ZKcVjicmUFJDRTDswrZpycK73IFB/view?usp=drive_link
Tool List for Rebolting with links on where to buy:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1VsuVNuQdAZtBxl9Y9-bX9o0Q1nLpcjwliXAB2p4vH6E/edit?usp=sharing
Where to find and report bad bolts:
badbolts.com
Best Practices for Rebolting in the RRG:
- Work within your ability level, don't take on any work you aren’t trained for.
- Once you start to replace a bolt, finish the job. Never leave a route in an unsafe condition.
- Old bolt holes should be reused whenever possible. When hole for hole replacement is not possible/practical or a bolt location needs moved, the old bolt holes should be patched and camouflaged.
- While a mix of mechanical and adhesive anchors are used for new route development in RRG, due to their long service life and maintenance-free nature, adhesive anchors should be used for bolt replacement. Glue-In Bolts should be a minimum of 4" in length, made of Stainless Steel or Titanium and be installed with an appropriate Epoxy, Epoxy-Acrylate, or Vinylester adhesive.
- Components used on anchors; such as chain, quicklinks, and rap rings should be Stainless Steel whenever possible. While components intended as the wear component in an anchor system, such as Mussy Hooks, may be plated steel due to their relative ease of replacement.
Additional resources for Rebolting, Maintenance, and New Development in the Red River Gorge:
RRGCC Info on Land Managers, Development MOU
https://rrgcc.org/bolting
How Not To Highline’s Bolting Bible:
https://www.hownot2.com/post/boltingbible
Access Fund:
How to Identify Bad Bolts:
https://www.accessfund.org/latest-news/can-you-trust-that-bolt
ASCA:
Information on best practices, hardware guidelines, bolt removal and replacement techniques, placing adhesive and mechanical anchors.
https://safeclimbing.org/best-practices-for-hardware-and-placement
Rick Weber’s Bolting in Corbin Sandstone
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X6y6ZKcVjicmUFJDRTDswrZpycK73IFB/view?usp=drive_link
Tool List for Rebolting with links on where to buy:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1VsuVNuQdAZtBxl9Y9-bX9o0Q1nLpcjwliXAB2p4vH6E/edit?usp=sharing
Where to find and report bad bolts:
badbolts.com
